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The blintzes, chicken soup and gefilte fish are still there. But the revamped Lenny’s – a neighbourhood institution for more than 20 years – packs in much more than your average Jewish deli. There’s even a vegan version of its famous chicken soup.

Come for ready-to-heat dinners such as green curry or lamb shank and barley soup, or a takeaway bagel bursting with beef brisket, made by co-owner Mark Fine. Brightly painted timber walls inlaid with backlit signage steer you towards smoked and cured fish (including 12 kinds of herring), treats such as Basque cheesecake, golden schnitzels and American deli faves such as wedge salad.