Hailing from Sydney, Henrietta is all about Lebanese-style charcoal chicken. But it’s only part of the story.

Pass the open kitchen and you’re enveloped in a vision of disco-era Beirut. This is the scaffolding for a proper night out that includes fruit-forward Middle Eastern-accented cocktails, attentive staff and linen napkins.

Bouncy duck kofta, DIY-wrapped in cos lettuce, are a Levantine answer to sang choy bao. Falafel nails the formula of super-crisp outside, light and fluffy inside. Tiramisfouf is the bastard child of the turmeric sponge known as sfouf and Italy’s dessert du jour.

The chook – free-range, brined, cooked to order – is unsurprisingly good, especially on flatbread with toum, pickles and harissa. It’s a valid life choice to grab a half chicken, a lamb-stuffed pita and sumac-dusted chips from the takeaway window. But there’s plenty more to love here.