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What’s going on behind those pleated linen curtains on Flinders Lane? A few nights out on the company dime no doubt, hand-in-hand with debauchery, dates, and dinners on dad’s credit card. Tying it together are twin themes of extravagance and midnight blue, from the scallop-edged velour booths to the brutalist bathroom sink.

Saffron-charged rock lobster tagliolini is tossed tableside then turned out onto individual plates, and big-ticket steaks come pleasantly charred, free of sides but occasionally teamed with foie gras. A giardiniera martini is brash and invigorating, like drinking pickle brine straight from the jar in the fridge.

Well-dressed waitstaff threaten to outnumber diners and – once flagged down – run a first-class charm offensive, whether translating the top-tier wine list or scooping a TikTok-famous tiramisu out of a large dish. Not here to capture content? Tackle the towering vanilla meringue cake instead.