ReviewGood Food Guide (Vic)Carlton North

Enter Via Laundry

Ever evolving fine diner for hyper-regional cuisine.

November 18, 2024

1 / 9A selection of regional Indian dishes are on the menu.Supplied

2 / 9The bar’s not-so-discreet entrance.Simon Schluter

5 / 9Chicken scotch egg with spicy onions.Simon Schluter

6 / 9A photo gallery is found behind the bar.Simon Schluter

7 / 9Cocktails use Indian spices and Aussie ingredients.Atti.Co

8 / 9Patra poda, coconut and mustard prawns.Simon Schluter

14.5/20

Indian$$$

A regularly updated menu is no biggie, but reinventing a 12-course degustation every three months? That’s ambition.

Dishes at Enter Via Laundry draw on owner-chef Helly Raichura’s travels. A trip to Kerala might see pork smoked over paperbark and glazed with Davidson plum, and kunji pathiri (the rice flour parcels) swathed in kangaroo-tail gravy. Parsi culture informs the rice dish khichidi, which is punctuated by salmon roe and shaved cured egg yolk. Goat brain is crumbed and deep-fried, served with fiery fennel puree.

Macadamia liqueur and Meyer lemon bring heft to a nostalgic whipped cream dessert, offset by sour quince marmalade. There’s a communal table but those seeking privacy can book the back dining room.

The new walk-in-friendly bar serves snacks and a delightful boozy mango lassi with mountain pepper and yoghurt foam. Great news for spontaneous types.