Meaning “granny’s house” in Arabic, Dar Teta lives up to its name. But even if owner Ely Alkurd doesn’t know your face and order, you’ll be welcomed with genuine warmth. Her food is similarly soul-nourishing.

Falafels boast a deep golden crust dotted with sesame seeds. In Alkurd’s shish barak, a pool of zesty mint yoghurt almost outshines the plump beef and lamb dumplings swimming in it. Cumin-forward slow-cooked fava beans make for a rich dip alongside piping hot pucks of pita. It’s no surprise that a revolving door of regulars followed when Dar Teta relocated from the tiny township of Forrest to Colac.

Feast in the cafe’s homey surrounds – the walls splashed with colourful rugs and woven baskets – or get your goods to go. Whatever you do, don’t leave without a diamond-shaped slice of baklava: not overpoweringly sweet but overwhelmingly delicious.