Carnation Canteen

Glowing bijou beacon in a former corner store.

November 18, 2024

1 / 9Inside Fitzroy’s Carnation Canteen.Bonnie Savage

2 / 9Grilled whole King George whiting.Bonnie Savage

4 / 9A glowing beacon on a Fitzroy corner.Bonnie Savage

5 / 9Matrimonio (white and red anchovies).) at Carnation Canteen in Fitzroy Bonnie Savage

6 / 9Visit from 4pm for martinis and apertivi.Visit from 4pm for aperitivi,

7 / 9Chorizo at Carnation Canteen.Bonnie Savage

9 / 9The charming 20 seat restaurant.Coco and Maximilian

14.5/20

Contemporary$$

You could eat any dish at Carnation Canteen and understand the sensibilities that drive it. The calamari speaks of careful sourcing, the salad glimmers with seasonal glee, the fish is an advocate for lemon, salt and fire.

Owner-chef Audrey Shaw is a former architect, and as such the room’s every sliver and sight line has been considered: the patina of plaster, the marble bar by the kitchen. Service is considerate and sparkling, and everything on the scrawled menu is impeccable.

A marriage of white and dark anchovies is tickled with lemon zest. Grilled whiting is adorned with olive oil and citrus. The custardy cake Far Breton is boozy with soused prunes. Even the delivery of the bill, which comes with a generous shard of good chocolate, evokes a feeling of care and restraint.