This cosy little bastion of Taiwanese cooking is easy to spot with its bright yellow signage. The limited supply of the house speciality of tea-smoked chicken with brown skin and moist, succulent flesh is motivation to get in early. The rest of the wide-ranging menu reads like a roll-call of Taipei soul food. Try the beef noodle soup loaded with crunchy greens and beef shanks swimming in a hearty herbal beef broth. Sticky glutinous rice speckled with shrimp and mushrooms is popular, as is slow-cooked pork belly glistening in a savoury soy, chilli, aniseed and garlic sauce. Service is cheerfully familial.