If your idea of an honest-to-goodness Italian trattoria is red-and-white checked tablecloths, Campari posters on the walls, cheery Italian-speaking staff and an owner-chef busy making pasta in the kitchen, you've come to the right place. Giovanni and Cinzia Spinazzola (formerly of Da Gianni in Annandale) are newish arrivals at the old Elio's in Norton Street, but it feels as if they've been here forever. Thick, hollow, spaghetti-like bucatini is served all'amatriciana, lightly coated in a tomatoey, winey sauce lifted by smoky pancetta, while abbacchio - another Roman trademark - features various tender cuts of young lamb, first marinated, then slow-cooked and topped with pangrattato (garlicky breadcrumbs). Boned quail stuffed with herby pork sausage is a good meaty hit, although the promised 'crispy' potatoes arrived soft. The chocolate and chestnut cake is a less austere version of castagnaccio - the dense chestnut flour flan of Tuscany. We don't think La Tratt knows the meaning of the word austere.