Dining here is like stepping into stylish but well-worn loafers. Very Woollahra, really. More than 20 years on, this pub bistro that isn’t runs like a well-oiled machine, from courteous greetings at the door to informed discussions of the wine list and menu, plus a proffered taste of that wine you might be considering. You’re in safe hands among an eclectic set of customers whether business associates, old friends or a family birthday group. The bistro classics remain, along with rotating seasonal offerings. Sweet scallops nestle on juicy carrot discs with saffron and citrus gel. A nicely executed witlof tarte tatin sits beside duck confit with brussels sprout leaves, shimejis and diced foie gras. Pistachio appears in a praline with poached peaches, and in a sponge disc finished with frozen lemon yoghurt and almond cream. It’s a joy to see this old favourite keep on keeping on.

And ... It is now open for Monday lunch

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Busy, upscale bistro.
Best bit Food and wine with seamless service.
Worst bit No bookings at night.