Barbecue. Lamb. Beer. Western Legend BBQ has all the traits of a traditional Aussie backyard barbie, but doused with cumin, chilli and spices from north-west China instead of tomato sauce.

Since emerging with Xinjiang-inspired skewers at an Eastwood food stall and then to a bricks-and-mortar restaurant, the owners have expanded into shiny new south-east digs.

Signature cumin lamb skewers are disarmingly tender, with charcoal-rendered fat that bursts in the mouth, and multiple tables order the huge Sichuan-spiced fish hot pot featuring whole barramundi in an umami-laden broth topped with bean sprouts, tofu and mushrooms.

Spicy crawfish noodles with delicate flecks of shellfish and chilli oil throb with flavour while cold milk tea is on hand if you need to extinguish the heat.

The Legend lives on.