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When views of Merimbula’s shimmering blue water and estuaries disappear into darkness, Valentina transforms.

Candlelight casts a romantic glow across the room, illuminating soft drapery and cosy banquette seating. Couples whisper across tables, tasting the minerality of local oysters between sips of dirty gin martinis, and waiters wander between them, appearing whenever a glass is near empty to suggest fresh and juicy wines or cocktails championing native ingredients.

Dishes here feel familiar and comforting, elevated with flavour forward twists. Enormous slabs of sourdough disappear quickly with black garlic butter; just-seared scallops sit pretty in pink-hued shells, a careful balance of briny and buttery; and whole fried artichokes are tender and earthy, with the gentle heat of shichimi togarashi.

A striploin is ideal to share – salted well, nicely crusted and a perfect medium-rare. Satisfied and settled, you may need a digestif to ease you out of this South Coast cocoon.