Una Mas

Picture-perfect tapas and cheesecake.

November 11, 2024

1 / 8Charcoal grilled octopus with fermented habanero and fried thyme.Edwina Pickles

2 / 8House spritz with pet-nat and vermouth. Wolter Peeters

4 / 8Spatchcock pollo with garlic toum and kashmiri chilli.Edwina Pickles

5 / 8Mozzarella on lemon leaf.Wolter Peeters

6 / 8Frozen lemon with olive oil.Wolter Peeters

14.5/20

Spanish$$

Disclaimer

There is an ongoing investigation by The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailing allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, has begun an internal investigation into the claims and says it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW is also investigating the company.

Sharing ocean views with the Coogee Pavilion flagship Mimi’s is a daunting prospect, but this modest taberna carries itself with the swagger of a wayward cousin.

A casual spot, it’s geared for good times and styled like a Juan Gris still life with produce on show. Behind the countertop stacked with citrus and terracotta, you’ll find a small open kitchen pumping out a stream of small, delicious things.

The best are honest and uncomplicated, like sweet buffalo mozzarella, grilled gently on lemon leaves for a subtle aromatic boost. Gildas, croquetas, empanadas and the like cover the snack side of the menu, or you can delve deeper for wood-fired txistorra – the Basque country sausage – finished simply with apple cider, or charred octopus with fermented habanero.

And, since you’ll be in no hurry to give up a breezy beachside seat, hang around for one of the best Basque cheesecakes in town.