Expect comfort cuisine from Japan’s Akita prefecture at Sekka, where chef Hideto Suzuki balances traditional and experimental cooking, with a big focus on umami.

Start with creative small-plate offerings such as okra, steamed and served with a lip-smacking ponzu and waves of katsuobushi, before moving on to sashimi, gyoza and yakitori (the wagyu skewers are particularly rich and charred, but it’s hard to go past the sticks of juicy skin-on chicken thigh).

A signature hojicha green tea-smoked duck ramen rides an irresistible line of depth and fragrance in its aged-chicken chintan broth, while the tonkotsu is classically bold. Vegetarians are thoughtfully considered with a kombu and tomato broth, too.

Spend time exploring the sake menu at dinner, before finishing with a refreshing Earl Grey custard.