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Drawing on his Cantonese heritage, along with stints at Sepia and XOPP, Zachary Ng offers a uniquely Australian degustation experience at his tiny, personal inner-city hideaway.

The eight courses change often, but might include the likes of sweet mud crab dressed in lemon cream with apple and leek, or boned quail stuffed with shiitake mushrooms and foie gras. The Port Lincoln calamari, meanwhile, has been on since opening, its flesh cut into a tangle of pasta-like strips, cooked over flame for mere seconds, and plated on a pool of squid-ink sauce.

Diverse influences abound: mantou buns are paired with soy and condensed milk whipped butter; salted-egg yolk ice-cream is crowned with chrysanthemum foam.

For drinks, sake brings extra interest to a compact list rocking back vintages of Bordeaux and Burgundy. One of the biggest revelations, however, is that green pea ice-cream gets along swimmingly with honeydew granita.