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Push aside the heavy door curtains (so thrillingly European!) and you are enveloped in the golden warmth of a working wine and pasta bar. Boxes pile up by the curved bar and bottles line walls and windows. It’s easy to feel transported to the backstreets of Rome as you explore the short menu, featuring crunchy croquettes oozing with mozzarella and ’nduja, or a pouch of creamy burrata ringed with confit peppers.

Everything on the pasta-centric carte is to share, from the signature spaghetti cacio e pepe to little shells of conchiglie, richly sauced with clumps of soft sausage mingling with just-cooked pipis and a flutter of garlic.

The drinks list is entertaining, as it is at all venues in the growing Love Tilly Group family – they’ll even up-sell you a dash of Abruzzese cherry liqueur over your pistachio gelato. Do it.