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If Sydney is in its prawn toast era, Promenade has a seminal version: brioche, a mousse of bug meat, a sesame crust and lobes of sweet bug at the centre. A golden argument for the marriage of fried seafood and sea views – in this case, Bondi – from the refreshed Bondi Pavilion.

Step from the more casual Beach Bar to the Dining Room and the furnishings are luxe, but the tone and waiters are dressed down, the breeziness leaving room for elevated touches way beyond the everyday.

Pair that toast with a spritz containing Bizzarro Bitter Aperitivo before moving to crisped spatchcock on sweet, spiced “stuffing” that doubles as sauce.

Clarence River octopus could use more char, but there’s no arguing with saffron mafaldine (extruded at Sydney CBD sibling restaurant Grana) tangled with prawns, or the prospect of ordering a large pour from the wine list and riding out that booking till the sun sets.