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Few cuisines have been bastardised as thoroughly as Italian, from Vegemite in ragu alla bolognese to tandoori chicken on pizza. But step into Paski and you know you’re in for a properly good time that honours The Boot.

There’s no bad wine on the all-Italian list, and you may find yourself reverse engineering your food order to match. The minerality of a Campanian white blend is perfect for bigoli with sardine and fennel salsa, for instance, briny and rich over the fat spaghetti-like pasta. A lush Emilia-Romagna rosso cosies up with hanger steak, beefy and rare in an onion-forward sauce. And olive-oil cake with salted chocolate mousse would be lonesome without some Abruzzian vino cotto.

A fun, occasionally raucous Darlo favourite, serving the food a nonna would, if that nonna had excellent imagination and an endlessly interesting cellar. And that’s before we even get to the ground-level wine bar.