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In a warmly lit room, below a block of apartments in Macleay Street, Parlar aims to interpret Catalonia from a distance. On the plate, this translates to two set menus that draw on Australian ingredients to riff the region’s hits.

There’s a loose reference to tapas in a potato tart topped with a quail egg and sabayon spinning on tortilla, and jamon, anchovy and guindilla butters plated with brioche in a nod to celebrated Catalan ingredients. Aged Berkshire pork loin, meanwhile, is plated alongside bites of shoulder croquette and morcilla (snacks everywhere you look!).

Art infuses many plates, from the whirls of puree bordering salmorejo or pedro ximenez jus, to the bacalao-stuffed biquinho peppers surrounding Murray cod like jewels.

Cava to start sets a Spanish tone for drinks, while sharply dressed waiters, like the kitchen, have an eye for detail and artistry.