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Behind cafe-curtained windows, father-and-son-team Pino and Marc Russo have been reinventing the traditional trattoria for the past 12 years. Old-school hospitality underpins modern Italian cooking, now featuring an Australian-Korean bent courtesy of chef Jowoon Oh.

While the look is all European bistro – candlelight, chalkboard menus, vintage portraits – house-made ferments and pickles signal we’re not in standard Napoli territory any more.

Expect salty-sweet taralli doughnuts with black garlic, curled anchovies and wattleseed, and kombu-charged spanner crab harnessed by sweetcorn casarecce. Whole barramundi splashed with lemon and colatura di alici (Italy’s answer to fish sauce) is more classic, as is squid ink mafaldine pasta with chubby prawns in a buttery bisque-style sauce, and a nebbiolo-forward wine list.

Toast the motherland with a frosty glass of Pino’s limoncello to finish.