Noi

Italian with a few twists and turns.

November 11, 2024

1 / 9Noi takes an adventurous approach to Italian cooking.Brooke Zotti.

3 / 9Tagliolini veal bolognese.Dominic Lorrimer

4 / 9Risotto with cloudy bay clams.Dominic Lorrimer

5 / 9Cappon magro (sea mullet) with beetroot, parsley mayo.Dominic Lorrimer

6 / 9Carrot, macadamia and lemon myrtle citronette.Dominic Lorrimer

7 / 9The signature pig’s head sausage roll.Jennifer Soo

8 / 9Beef cheek with blue lentils and Tuscan cabbage.Jennifer Soo

9 / 9Open lasagne with yellowfin tuna and king prawns.Supplied

14.5/20

Italian$$

Dim sum steamer baskets for house-made focaccina? A twist of wattleseed on potato rosti? Traditionalists, look away now. Well, not really.

While this charming little spot proudly beats its own drum, we’re still in familiar Italian food territory, from richly crumbed, onion-packed sardines drizzled with paprika mayonnaise, through to sheets of green lasagne with pork-and-porcini ragu.

The casual setting (we love the goanna-themed light shades) and BYO-friendly approach belies an excellent wine list, with some top-drawer bottles and several upscale pours by the glass.

Menu change-ups happen regularly, but you may also encounter spaetzle, the noodles gooey with melty strings of smoked provola cheese, or a duck leg matched with a rich pâté on that wattleseed rosti. Tangy cherry sorbet, served in a jar, adds some sought-after acidity. Fun times, and well priced to boot.