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This dining room sure is a head turner, with soaring ceilings and a jumbo Bond villain-esque fireplace that begs to be noticed. The grandscale setting, however, is matched by real ambience, impeccable service and owner-chef Troy Rhoades Brown’s inspired cooking.

A five-course tasting menu leads with meticulously crafted snacks such as warm pumpkin doughnuts topped with goat’s cheese, and a crisp millefeuille of trout, yuzu and dill. Chawanmushi is treated to an indulgent measure of smoked tallow and shiitake mushrooms, with roasted kelp vinegar and puffed buckwheat to freshen things up.

Local lamb rump rounds things out in a graceful protein-led crescendo, the meat grilled slowly over ironbark and served with smoked eggplant butter, bonito flakes and black garlic. With a premier wine list showcasing local back-vintage gems and big-ticket stalwarts, Muse remains one of the state’s essential dining destinations – and after 15 years in the business, no less.