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Forget the dusting of parmesan, the kitchen’s hand-crafted pasta and seafood-led share plates are finished with a sprinkling of sea air from nearby Coogee Beach at this bright, terracotta-floored neighbourhood favourite.

Campanelle is warmed with sweet nubs of prawn, crustacean butter and chilli, while the bucatini all’amatriciana hums with cheesiness thanks to a cap of stracciatella set to stir through. Swordfish cotoletta is a perfect foil to the pasta party, sitting on a jumble of crushed fagioli beans flanked by a rich beef jus that ups the meatiness without dominating the crumbed fish.

A natural-leaning wine list and enthusiastic service add to the excitement, culminating in the obligatory house sundae – a scoop of salted caramel gelato enrobed in airy whipped cream, topped with sliced fig and finished with a blast of salt air.