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The omakase wave isn’t quite breaking, but with the novelty wearing off a little, the venues keeping the showmanship and technical levels high across visits are the ones likely to keep their counter seats full. Thankfully – and despite its tempura spin-off closing – Kuon is still in the zone.

It starts with the rice – the grains distinct, the seasoning spot on – which forms the base for nigiri, crafted with meticulous care just metres away: precision cut cuttlefish with umeboshi; clean, clear alfonsino with yuzu nori; three different, exquisite cuts of tuna.

Luxury abounds, from tempura snow crab to wagyu with truffle, while chawanmushi is silky and tamago to finish is sweetly savoury. Could the wine and sake lists tone the prices down? Could offerings of water help? It’s a yes to both. But that doesn’t shake the delight that still comes with snagging a booking.