From the moment you’re whisked through a tunnel of LED screens into a room pulsating with sound and colour, a visit to Funda is almost transcendent. But even in a drab space, chef Jung-su Chang’s genre-bending modern Korean dishes would be outstanding. Steamed corn-laced ho-bbang buns with just the right amount of sponginess to mop up a plate of stracciatella with master soy sauce and grilled leeks, for instance, or springy rice noodles with soy-cured tuna, a version of bibimmyeon that dispenses with spice in favour of mushroom sauce. Funda might be a Korean-English portmanteau meaning “have fun”, but that doesn’t mean things aren’t polished: staff might describe how the Timorasso grape was saved from extinction, or steer you towards their favourite drinks and dishes, which might just be camomile ice-cream on ginger granita – a palate cleanser before you return to the real world.