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Clam Bar looks every bit like the vintage big-city chophouses from which it takes its cues. And, in many ways, it acts the part too, doling out ice-cold prawn cocktails followed by charry, full-flavoured steaks and triple-digit Barolo.

But what of the artisan sake offered as an aperitif? The surprising yet spot-on presence of tom yum aromatics in that prawn cocktail sauce? Or the soft-spoken buttery sweetness pistachio cream brings to a carefully dressed and aptly named “velvet crab” salad?

Smart little idiosyncrasies like these, coupled with confident and charismatic service, keep things fresh and exciting from the first (excellent) martini, to the tart bursts of finger lime tempering the sweetness of coconut sorbet, melon balls and Sauternes jelly.

Sure, the sticker shock on some dishes is real, but then so too is the hedonistic spirit.