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With all the hype that came with the relaunch of Jacksons on George, it was hard to know if it would last. But a year on, the public bar’s pumping, the rooftop’s rocking and the Harvey Wallbangers are banging.

If there’s a surprise, it’s that the middle floor, housing Bistro George, isn’t as rammed, especially when things are this polished.

Certainly there are few CBD diners that strike such balance between pushing things where they need it and holding back where they don’t. See the clams casino done with pipis, served over ice and topped with a garlicky guanciale-breadcrumb mix. Or lush celeriac risotto with saline punch from sea purslane.

Then there are the simple luxuries of coral trout with champagne beurre blanc, big-name steaks done right and tableside tiramisu. And that’s without mentioning the cellar or the smarts backing it up. Hype, meet execution.