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Ante

Package deal of artisan sake, clever dishes and warm service.

Kare pan (Japanese curry bread) at Ante in Newtown.
1 / 5Kare pan (Japanese curry bread) at Ante in Newtown.Brook Mitchell
Chocolate cake with red rice.
2 / 5Chocolate cake with red rice. Brook Mitchell.
Bonito crudo with burnt honey and rhubarb.
3 / 5Bonito crudo with burnt honey and rhubarb.Brook Mitchell
The bar specialises in sake.
4 / 5The bar specialises in sake. Supplied
Some of the 2500 vinyl records behind the bar.
5 / 5Some of the 2500 vinyl records behind the bar. Supplied

Good Food hat15.5/20

Contemporary$$

Chef Jemma Whiteman’s casarecce with kanzuri, prawn and clementine is, quite simply, wonderful. Al dente pasta tossed through a glorious buttery sauce, enlivened by fermented chilli paste and invigorated by citrus. Gadzooks.

Ante, modelled on Japan’s jazz-focused listening bars, is all about this kind of clever, disarming cooking, plus artisan sake imported by co-owner Matt Young.

Plus music. So much music. See the hundreds of vinyl records behind the long wooden, mood-lit counter; hear trumpet player Kazufumi Kodama, Detroit hip-hop and no end of Afrobeat.

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Other hits include the reassuring texture of fried potato mochi with “everything bagel” sprinkles; grilled mackerel with buttermilk and hazelnut butter; and the delicious juxtaposition of pineapple granita against sake-lees ice-cream.

Young’s smashable yuzu margaritas are a modern classic, too, while switched-on service by career hospitality staff cements Ante as an essential Sydney experience.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/ante-20240128-p5f0ku.html