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On any given weekend, you can expect 10 William’s small dining room to be heaving with people, pasta and fast-emptying bottles of wine (probably natural, probably French or Italian).

Waiters weave their way through the crowd, stopping to say hello to regulars, or suggesting a second glass from the changing blackboard selection.

It’s an easy place to lose an hour or two, dragging ripped morsels of still-warm pretzel through salty whipped bottarga, twirling buttery spaghetti chitarra around the tender piece of prawn on your fork, or savouring the culinary bliss of velvet-like gnocchi, doused in sweet, bright pomodoro sauce.

The generously portioned tiramisu is a popular choice before parting ways, but the fior di latte gelato, with little rivulets of olive oil and chopped fruit, shouldn’t be overlooked.

Pro tip: booking ahead makes it better – walk-in guests may encounter a wait.