This heritage-listed Victorian house with verdant elevated gardens and intimate dining rooms set with linen is where the Simone family's treasured recipes bring Umbrian classics to life through regional bounty. Parents Patrizia and George opened in 1986; now son Anthony mans the restaurant kitchen and his wife, Hope, runs the floor. What appears on the table is locally farmed, foraged, pulled from the kitchen garden, house-butchered, baked, cured and crafted with care. Simple dishes offer the greatest reward. Sweet, full-flavoured tomato soup leaves you longing for more. Soft raviolone di patate spills saffron-coloured egg yolk over the lightest gnocchetti into black Italian truffle-flecked gorgonzola sauce. Alpine cherries add agrodolce to a delicate tumble of hand-rolled tagliatelle in hare ragu. Secondi? Maybe suckling pig porchetta, crackling-crusted broccolini and cauliflower puree or Dorper lamb, roasted, rolled and braised, on zucchini caponata, cavolo nero and heirloom carrots. Dolce? Truffle-laced choc fondant. Tutto bene – all good.

And … Master the art of making pappardelle at Patrizia's cooking school.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Homely.
Best bit Outstanding hand-rolled pasta.
Worst bit The lure of Brunello and Barolo will push up the bill.