It’s been named one of the world’s best restaurants and is booked out weeks ahead. Yet there’s no lyrical journey up mountain roads or through snow-covered lowlands preceding dinner at Attica. How can this simply appointed Ripponlea dining room possibly live up to the hype? Relax. The wait won’t be in vain. From the flurry of intricate unlisted starters to a caramel-filled chocolate egg at the end, New Zealand-born Ben Shewry and his enthusiastic team lead diners on an Antipodean journey full of intrigue and delight. Earth-cooked potatoes are plated with crisped saltbush leaves, king george whiting comes parcelled in paperbark, buttery and lifted by lemon myrtle, and rare wallaby is paired with scorched macadamia nuts. A quick turn around the courtyard garden for warm apple juice and DIY toasted marshmallows provides an interlude before dessert. There’s serious intent behind this temple of fine dining. There’s also a whole lot of fun.

Drinks Passionate international list with interest at all price points and the service to do it justice

And … Many of the leaves served are grown in the grounds of nearby Ripponlea mansion.