Few Italian meals of this calibre are eaten to such robust guitar riffs as might accompany you at Bar Alto. But that's the incongruous appeal of dining in the lovably grungy Powerhouse. Outdoor tables provide stupendous views of the river while, inside, the atmosphere ebbs and flows with the theatre crowds. No sooner prick a bright green asparagus-and-pecorino souffle and a golden yolk of duck egg oozes forth, justifying the well crisped slice of pancetta perched on top. Pea-green herb ravioli are filled with creamy poached baccala and served in a velvety potato vellutata (soup). Duck comes in three forms: breast slices and rounds of cotechino (sausage), served on lentils and drizzled in duck stock agrodolce that's light yet retains the flavour gained from several days on the hob. To finish, ultra-dark chocolate pudding with chopped hazelnuts and topped with ice-cream. Add informed service and worthy wines and Bar Alto puts on quite a show.