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Melbourne is spoilt for choice when it comes to late-night Korean barbecue, gochujang-stained fried chicken, and cosy spots for soju and jjigae. Doju represents a whole new genre of Korean food.

The sticky pork dish jokbal is reimagined with kohlrabi as the star, braised in soy, cinnamon and ginger until burnished and brilliantly meaty. A spin on jeotgal, the salt-preserved seafood, sees calamari from Corner Inlet cured then marinated in fish sauce and sesame oil, served on rice and lettuce as a two-bite snack.

Yukhoe – raw chopped beef – is sharpened with desert lime. And a head-turning halloumi dish is given the Korean fried chicken treatment, its sweet red glaze showered in sesame seeds.

Experienced hands keep service humming, and the two-tiered room is all flowing curtains, olive green and black marble – well suited to its legal district location.