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You may have a tinge of deja-vu. Same white-walled space, same cosy neighbourhood feel, same thoughtfully prepared modern Vietnamese food.

The revamped Anchovy is much like the original, but there’s plenty of newness to be found. Take a sought-after seat at the bar for chef Thi Le’s banh khot, the tiny turmeric rice flour pancakes topped with fish head floss.

Delicate prawn and pork dumplings bask in a broth headlined by white pepper, and a claypot of hand rolled tapioca noodles arrives at the table still sizzling; pierce the yolk on top to create a DIY sauce.

The wine list is smart, the cocktails clever, and co-owner Jia Yen Lee is a delight to rope into conversation about what’ll drink best with the bold flavours coming out of the kitchen. The first Anchovy was beloved for a reason. If the packed room is anything to go by, diners are glad to have it back.