It's easier to book these days, but this nine-year-old Randwick stalwart is still civilised enough for budget-conscious Saturday nights and midweek quickies alike. Mixed satay comes with two sauces: an intense basil one for the lamb; peanut for the chicken - both great after all these years. Bandeng duri lunak (slow-cooked milk fish, deep-fried and served with a kecap manis relish) is soft, crunchy, dense, tangy - slice it and eat it bones and all. Service can be a little rushed, and the quality inconsistent, but dinner in the leafy courtyard (a more serene setting than the noisy dining room) is a simple summer pleasure.