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Is Canberra’s dining scene riding an all-time high? Definitely. Just look at the names behind the capital’s most recent big openings: Matt Moran is grilling steaks at Compa, Chris Lucas is flogging focaccia and tiramisu at Carlotta.

But if out-of-towners looking to capitalise on the market is a sign of rude health, we only got here because of how dramatically the landscape has shifted. Bar Rochford, Onzieme, Pilot, Such and Such: all are names emblematic of a trend that’s helped reshape eating out in Canberra over the past decade, run by young owner-operators making it their mission to build something special in the place they call home.

Lunetta, the reimagining of the starship-like modernist restaurant atop Red Hill, is not part of this trend. But it’s not exactly the other thing either; proprietor Tracy Keeley is no blow-in, having proven herself an astute operator at celebrated local cafes Bookplate and Pollen. Instead, Lunetta is a dramatic reframing of fine-dining for the capital, maintaining the big-night-out energy of longstanding stalwarts, but unquestionably for the here and now.

Plenty of that is down to chef Tristan Rebbettes, a former Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year nominee in whose hands familiar dishes have been given fresh perspective.

Yamba prawns aren’t split and served in the shell, but half-peeled with heads and tails on, grilled hard, then plated with bright salsa rossa and a peperoncino thrumming with the fruit-forward heat of chilli. Crudo equals precision slices of ruby-red Ulladulla tuna loin under a mosaic of blowtorched orange segments, figs and marigold, with burnt honey expanding the dimensions.

The rest is down to the sense of occasion. Designed by Miles Jakl and later extended in modernist style by Enrico Taglietti, the 1963 building shines in the sun, with faceted bay windows and an elevated position offering views over the city.

For many, it’s hallowed ground, tied to the rush of development and optimism that Menzies ushered in during the ’60s, the swelling population, the flooding of Lake Burley Griffin. The Canberra Times called it the city’s first dodecagon, or 12-sided building (as if more buildings with 12 sides were on the way), while locals remember its restaurant, Carousel, as the place they celebrated wedding anniversaries or met prospective in-laws over steak diane and crepes suzette.

It’s to the Keeleys’ credit (Tracy runs Lunetta with sons Nicholas and Matthew), that after acquiring the site for $2.25 million in 2021, they’ve worked hard to connect it to its roots. Design firm ACME – behind such striking fit-outs as Song Bird and Gimlet – took charge, tying it to the landscape with furnishings in colours of earth, stone and eucalyptus and bringing in modernist touches.

At night, amber glass, long mirrors and a light installation under the central spire give the whole building warmth, as if it stores power in the golden glow of the afternoon then slowly releases it over the course of the evening.

It would have been easy to give the place a space-age refresh akin to the Jetsons-style bar atop Sydney Tower, but instead it feels current, vital. As does Rebbettes’ cooking. There are hints of his time at Saint Peter and Flying Fish in the blue mackerel, butterflied then crisped over coals, but it’s the freshness in the accompanying broccolini salsa verde that lingers.

Duck breast is on the gummier side, but tossing beetroot and blood sausage through the same dressing so each resembles the other in the garnish pays dividends on the palate.

Whatever the pasta is, order it: the ground floor houses sibling Lunetta Trattoria, which specialises in the stuff, but the pert, pecorino-topped ravioli that’s made upstairs, stuffed with buffalo ricotta and potato, is the business. Rebbettes’ thick-cut sourdough is a thing of beauty too, glazed in molasses and served with whipped butter. The guy can bake, but it’s too similar to the bread at Cafe Paci (where Rebbettes also cooked) to applaud too much; just cite it.

Generally, though, the sense is of a chef making good on his promise. The technique, honed at Mona Farm, is strong, the team is tuned, the ideas sound. What makes this more than just a restaurant with a good kitchen, though, is the supporting cast: there’s wit and charm on the floor, skilled hands behind the bar, showmanship in the presentation. There’s consideration in the wine service, too, helping to find value in a list that leans on big-occasion bottles from Burgundy, Tuscany and Piemonte among tried and true Aussie gear.

For sweets, a meringue disc capping folds of creme patissiere studded with preserved pear and honeycomb is an architectural, textural dream. A jolt of parsley sorbet lurks beneath. At Lunetta, there’s a jolt for Canberra’s restaurant scene too, and perhaps a new path for the city’s fine-diners. Just follow the beacon on the hill.