Hotel Centennial
Beautifully precise cooking amid eastern suburbs elan.
European$$
Disclaimer
In October 2024, The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Good Food detailed allegations of sexual harassment, exploitation of female staff and drug use at Merivale venues. Merivale, the owner of this restaurant, began an internal investigation into the claims and said it is committed to “an inclusive, diverse and respectful workplace environment for our staff, as well as for our customers”. SafeWork NSW also began investigating the company. In June 2025 and July 2025, further allegations of exploitation and underpayment of Merivale workers were made, and Fair Work confirmed it was investigating the company. Merivale has denied all allegations against it. The investigation remains ongoing.
The immaculate nude linen. The rotating Olsen Gallery artworks. The sculptural foliage dotted about the sun-drenched dining room. If you don’t live in a lavish home in the eastern suburbs, Hotel Centennial is a great place to play make believe
And with longstanding Merivale chef Ben Greeno calling the shots, a roaring wood oven, expertly poured wine, elegant touches like terrine sliced tableside and just-warm brown butter cake splashed with whisky? Well, why not. On Sundays, a whole side of rib-roast beef is displayed proudly by the kitchen, ready for Yorkies and other pristine seasonal trimmings.
“Today’s offal dish”, meanwhile, might see veal tongue braised overnight, seared and splashed with a black truffle vinaigrette; a plate of blistered zucchini – prepared alla scapece and flush with ricotta, plump white anchovies and chilli oil – standing by. All class.
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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/nsw-good-food-guide/hotel-centennial-20240114-p5ex5e.html