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Tip one: arrive early for a drink at Flotilla’s schmick new next-door bar, Vecina. There’s lo-fi riesling. There are gildas. There are very good cocktails.

Tip two: when you sit down to dine in the restaurant – handsome and accented in brick and brown leather – put your wine order in the hands of general manager Eduardo Molina. The hospitality veteran always has a bottle of something rare on the pour (maybe an old Hunter shiraz, perhaps a natural Etna Rosso), and knows just what to pair with chef Jake Deluca’s food.

Expect the tasting menu to feature finely calibrated, seasonal flavours such as deep-pink tranches of wild fallow deer with beetroot and sticky bone-marrow sauce; warming Jerusalem artichoke soup beefed up with pickled shimeji mushrooms; and submissive hunks of butternut pumpkin and feta cloaked in scarlet-red swathes of coppa.

Tip three: finish with a deftly stirred Sazerac back where the night began.