Da Mario’s slices are a revelation in lightness. Chef Bryan Gerlini has made the move from Paddington’s 10 William St to serve textbook Neapolitan-style pizza, fermenting dough until it’s perfectly airy, and flash baking his pies in a blistering hot wood-fired oven.

A margherita emerges smoke kissed, its fluffy crust topped, as per tradition, with buffalo mozzarella, San Marzano tomatoes and basil leaves. The quality of the house-made pasta is so fine it hardly needs sauce, but the spaghettoni mare is elevated by a delicate coating of bright tomato sauce and generous morsels of Moreton Bay bug.

Tagliatelle tangled with pork and beef ragu is a crowd-pleaser to span all generations of the families who hunker down in the airy industrial-chic dining room every weekend, and coconut panna cotta dotted with yuzu is a silky-sharp finish.