'The night is young and we're middle-aged. Anything could happen!' says Celeste Holm in the 1955 movie Tender Trap. Evoking possibilities is precisely what this ambitious namesake restaurant offers predominantly north-east suburbs middle-agers. While the prices are a tad city-ish, and the menu's less daring these days, a refurbishment on its 10th birthday is timely to keep things fresh. Date night? Kick it off with simply conceived yet prettily plated entrees, such as an assembly of intertwining beetroot, orange segments, goat's cheese and microherbs. Dinner out with friends? A crisp-skinned whole-roasted young chicken on a cabbage and silverbeet bed is flavoursome, as is a triple deck of char-grilled lightly spiced lamb chops with pickled onions and roasted cos, though you'll need sides. A romantic anniversary? Why not. For if the night is still young as the share dessert platter arrives, abounding with puffy loukoumades and sweet vanilla and coconut panna cotta, anything could indeed happen.