Melbourne’s markets are undergoing their most significant changes in decades, transforming from places to shop into destinations to stop and snack.

The city’s oldest market, Queen Victoria Market, is in the midst of a multi-year $268 million renewal project. Residential developments are being added there and at Preston Market, turning these historic sites into mini neighbourhoods. And shiny new shops, brewpubs and eateries are opening at every one of the city’s covered markets, as they shift their focus to younger visitors seeking more ready-to-eat food.

But it’s not good news for all, with reports by some long-standing traders that they feel they’re being forced out in the race to modernise. Others criticise the renewal projects for destroying the character of Melbourne’s six major covered markets.

Whether you visit a market to queue up for pastries or to get a great deal on pork sausages, it’s undeniable that there is now far more on offer to keep you there, from Italian comfort food, Hong Kong-inspired desserts or hearty mushroom burgers. Here are some recent openings.

American Doughnut Kitchen, Prahran

The always-thronged hot doughnut van that’s been at Queen Victoria Market for more than 70 years finally made the trip south side in July. The van itself hasn’t moved to Prahran Market, but American Doughnut Kitchen’s tried-and-tested recipe has, along with the van’s retro curves and stripes, which now grace a shopfront.

The space has a far more relaxed atmosphere than the original. Kids can at last see the hot jam doughnuts being made without their parents hoisting them up for a peek into the van. New flavours are now possible: cinnamon doughnuts are already on the menu, and salted caramel is next. And, most importantly, you can get a coffee with your sugary treat − made with Code Black beans, no less.

Shop 803, Market Square, Prahran Market, 163 Commercial Road, South Yarra, adk1950.com.au

Ugo Burrata Bar, South Melbourne

“We believe that burrata honestly goes well with everything,” says Dario Di Clerico, one of the owners of this seriously specialised eatery that opened in December. The oozy balls of cheese headline in everything from baked beans to bagels, going beyond the classic combo of burrata-tomato-basil. The menu changes to suit the season, but the milky sweetness of That’s Amore burrata is a constant. Right now, bestsellers are s’mores made with bruleed burrata, slow-cooked beef cheeks, plus the year-round favourite: a porchetta sandwich on focaccia.

Deli Aisle, shop 22, South Melbourne Market, cnr Coventry and Cecil streets, South Melbourne, ugo.com.au/burrata-bar

Joy Jaune, Preston

When a former restaurant pastry chef sets up shop in a suburban market, you take notice. Hong Kong-born Joey Leung covers her small display with intricately piped hazelnut eclairs, generous slices of cake, and glossy panna cottas, many of them made with fruit from fellow market traders. “I can’t do the same thing every day,” Leung says, which is why her menu moves with the seasons and her creative streak. Right now, lemon olive oil cake comes with candied cumquat. Next, she’ll work on her smash-hit mooncakes, available for pre-order ahead of September’s Mid-Lunar Festival, celebrated by many Asian communities.

Shop N28, Pam Lane, Preston Market, 30A The Centreway, Preston, instagram.com/joyjaune/

Market Lane, Prahran

Fifteen years after raising the bar for Melbourne coffee, Market Lane has given its original cafe a glow-up. And what a glow-up it is. Minimalist U-shaped stools, sage-green accents and a sweeping cabinet of pastries are the sleek backdrop to an expanded food menu and next-level lattes. Diehard fans can perch at the brew bar to watch their Guatemalan filter coffee being made, while others can relax at one of 70 seats. Just add a ham sandwich (featuring Prahran Market butcher G.McBean’s finest) or granola with Schulz yoghurt to complete your mid-shopping pitstop.

Shop 13, Prahran Market (enter via Elizabeth Street), 163 Commercial Road, South Yarra, marketlane.com.au

Romanello, Queen Victoria

A rainbow’s worth of pizza slices welcomes you, from rosy mortadella with snow-coloured burrata to vibrant pumpkin and rocket. These square slices on sturdy dough, known as pizza a taglio, are one of the specialties of this high-energy shop adjacent to the market. The other is sandwiches on schiacciata, a lighter and airier cousin of focaccia. Go fresh with the Mamma Mia (prosciutto, cherry tomato, basil, rocket and stracciatella) or load up via Joey Cutlets (crumbed chicken, sweet and sour onions, scorched provolone and pistachio pesto).

93 Therry Street, Melbourne, instagram.com/romanello.au

And also:

Maker & Monger offers cheeseboards tailored to you (called cheese your own adventure) that can be enjoyed at Prahran Market (Shop 98) with wine at retail prices. Chat with a cheesemonger to find the cheese for you, and if you don’t finish your bottle of RD Meure chardonnay from Tasmania, you can take it home.

The Borek Shop at Queen Victoria Market (Shop 93-96, Dairy Hall) is back open after a subtle facelift that’s also doubled its footprint. That means three more ovens, faster-moving queues and more borek fillings, including leek and spinach.