Sucking hot soybeans from their salted pod, a little wooden box of top-shelf sake at the ready - there's a lot to love about Komeyui. It's the vision of Hokkaido-born chef Motomu Kumano (ex-Kenzan) who designed the restaurant with harmony, health and tradition in mind. Aesthetics are considered, from the warmly lit, blond-timbered space and beautiful Japanese crockery to the stunning sashimi platter of kingfish, salmon, scallop and king dory with sheer daikon crisps and mini towers of wasabi. Rice is cooked in a hagama, a traditional cast-iron pot, and a shichirin (charcoal brazier) is used to grill luscious black cod, marinated for three days in miso, mirin or sake. Hokkaido specialities include a succulent foil-wrapped parcel of steamed salmon with white miso and beanshoots, and the soul-satisfying Berkshire pork curry hotpot, a miso-based brew, is kept warm at the table with a gas burner. Then, for dessert, there's silken sake brulee with a brittle top. Service is confident and friendly, just another solid aspect of this splendid spot.