Il Bacaro sets the template for the perfect Italian restaurant. There's the setting, a cloistered space winking invitingly behind timber venetians; the cheery brio of the Italian-speaking waiters; the wine list, a lengthy ode to the homeland. Il Bacaro has it all sewn up. After 11 years in the job, chef David Dellai nails exactly what the crowd wants - lightly fried calamari on rocket is rustically straightforward, while kingfish crudo skews thrillingly modern with pickled cucumber, red grapes, bottarga mayo and pink peppercorns. Pasta is outstanding - lemon-infused tagliolini buddying up with raw tuna and salmon roe - while mains go either way, with nonna-style roasted kid in a wet braise with tomato and kipflers, or more art-directed venison with foie gras sauce and cocoa nib-studded tartare. The signature agave cheesecake with violet ice-cream and fairy floss finishes things with a youthful flourish.