Could it be a culinary billet-doux? Named after a former owner's wife, the convivial affair of this bijou French bistro hasn't missed a beat since former France-Soir waiter Jean-Paul Tranquille took over. He's a man who knows what others want. simple French cookery, personable service, and a comfortable setting for a back-street rendezvous. And that's what Chez Bob delivers, in a room as casual or formal as you like, with a one-card menu of classics. rich beef bourguignon, snails baked in garlic butter, sweet onion soup and a strongly flavoured twice-baked goat's cheese souffle. It's tick-the-box French, but when the steaks are this well rested, the pomme frites this desirously thin, and the creme brulee this delightfully caramelised, who's to quibble about a cliche? Tables are dressed in white linen and butcher's paper, candlelit at night, and the wine list leans nicely to reds from the Rhone. An intimate pleasurey.