It might hit you when chandelier light casts prismatic brilliance into an already gleaming wine glass. Perhaps it’s when the expert balance of each dish’s ingredients is revealed. It could even be when a waiter offers to hang your coat. It becomes clear that this is a treat, whether you’re in the elegant, cosy downstairs, or upstairs, amid artwork and laden wine racks. The perfect texture of house-made rotolo pasta is enhanced by soft pumpkin and ricotta filling, goat’s curd, and musky sage then grounded with nutty browned butter. Heavenly suckling pig is wicked with crackling, sweet with mustard fruits and pureed carrot and devilish with pickled shallots to cut the richness. Silky cauliflower puree, currants and saffron are the adornments of a skilfully cooked john dory. For once, it’s no cliche to say blackberry and almond torte with clotted cream melts in the mouth. Service, generally, is an elegant match. It’s worth crossing town on the centonove (109) tram to get here.

And … There are six ‘regional Italy’ Sunday lunches a year.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe First date, date night and beyond.
Best bit The cooking.
Worst bit Check street parking restrictions carefully.