Con Christopoulos, one of Melbourne’s most respected restaurateurs, knows that Bossa Nova is an unusual name for the slick CBD sushi train he’s just opened with chef Victor Liong, of the two-hatted Lee Ho Fook.

But while the overarching concept is a cultural mash-up, don’t expect Brazilian sushi.

“Having a Brazilian name gives us permission to veer off from the whole Japanese thing and bring in bossa nova music and, of course, delicious Caipirinhas,” says Christopoulos, who was inspired by the large Japanese population during his travels through Brazil.

Christopoulos – also behind such stalwarts as The European and City Wine Shop – has brought Bossa Nova to life in a Bourke Street site he’s had for nearly 20 years, first as cafe-bar-gallery Self Preservation, and most recently as Greek restaurant Kafeneion. “There’s a bit of magic in this space,” says Christopoulos. “There always has been.”

Above the original Self Preservation signage on the facade, “Bossa Nova” now glows in red neon, beckoning visitors into a familiar space with an unfamiliar showpiece: a shiny sushi train imported from Taiwan atop a solid-brass, curved-edge table dotted with 28 stools. (You can also load up a tray with plates and sit at one of the indoor or outdoor tables, if you prefer.)

Plates range from $4.80 to $12 and, as is customary, each price has a corresponding colour.

It’s mostly self-service, which helps keep it wallet-friendly.

“Producing such good food at such a good price, something has to give, and that’s service,” says Christopoulos. “It’s a way to control wages – the number-one issue at the moment.”

Liong and his team are mainly keeping things classic, slicing and dicing fish in a “turbocharged” kitchen upstairs, then plating all sorts of nigiri and maki rolls downstairs. The key ingredient: a blend of premium yumepirika rice from Hokkaido and Australian koshihikari rice, seasoned with a vinegar mixture developed in-house.

Expect several different cuts of Ora King salmon, the belly topped with grated ginger; freshwater and saltwater eel, both flame-seared; and more. “We love working with local suppliers and fisheries within Australia and New Zealand,” says Liong. “When in season, we are looking forward to presenting local bonito and Spanish mackerel.”

Beyond sushi – and the train – there will be several rotating a la carte specials, made to order. You might find freshly shucked Appellation oysters with bonito-vinegar jelly and ginger vinaigrette; grilled wagyu ox-tongue with yuzu relish and mustard cress; or fresh scallops served on their shell.

“I’m being cheeky and mirroring what I love at Con’s other venues, and bringing a Japanese flair to them,” says Liong. “The marinara pasta at City Wine Shop is a favourite. At Bossa Nova, we will do a pipis-and-clam udon with seaweed butter. And the [City Wine Shop] crowd-favourite schnitzel will come in the form of a pork katsu with very traditional accompaniments.”

Alongside that aforementioned Caipirinha, a lime-forward cocktail made with the Brazilian sugarcane spirit cachaca, there’s an interesting edit of wines by the half-bottle, and a short-but-sweet sake list that favours approachability and affordability.

“Sake can be a blind spot for people,” says Christopoulos. “So we wanted to simplify it … and sharpen our pencil on the prices.”

Open Tue-Sat 11.30am-midnight

70 Bourke Street, Melbourne, instagram.com/bossanovasushi_train