So, it turns out that Australia’s top pinot noir producers – makers of highly sought after, expensive wines – don’t feel comfortable with the idea that they are luxury brand owners. But they’ll grudgingly admit that thinking like a luxury brand owner can help build a sustainable business.

This apparent tension – between luxury and sustainability – was a theme running through the 10th biennial Pinot Noir Celebration Australia, held this month on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula. The two-day event draws more the 200 pinot lovers – winemakers, growers, consumers, sommeliers, journos – from around the country and the world to talk, taste and drink and to argue about their favourite grape.