Loïc Avril is one of the best sommeliers in the country. He’s the head of wine for the Lucas group of restaurants in Melbourne and has worked for luminaries such as celebrity chef Heston Blumenthal and the doyen of somms, the late Gerard Basset at the Hotel du Vin in the UK. So when Avril recommends a wine, especially with that glint in his eye that says, “this is really something special”, you take notice, and make a note to track a bottle down and try it.

Even if the wine is non-alcoholic. No: especially if the wine is non-alcoholic.