Jordan Toft is an unusual chef, in that he talks more about the romance of the table than he does of the food. His favourite time at the table is “when you kick back in your chair, and drop out of the conversation to remember the moment.”

That moment is what he wants diners to savour at Mimi’s, the long-awaited mid-level dining room in that splendid Sydney beachside mansion, Coogee Pavilion.