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Instead of sitting by the window at Sakedokoro Namara, looking out at the trams and wrought iron detailing on buildings along Victoria Street, take a seat at the bar. That way your view will be straight out of Tokyo, helped along by rows of sake lining the walls.

Owner Akito Kurokawa sources a broad range and makes much of it available on tap, but helpful staff alleviate any sense of overwhelm. It’s a fantastic place to get acquainted with the drink, without spending a fortune.

Food is best explored through a set of nine dishes in a wooden box – among them, lotus root and kale in tahini miso, deep-fried fish with sweet vinegar sauce, barely seared scallops with nori for wrapping. Or come for lunch on Friday or Saturday for rice bowls topped with raw fish or teriyaki chicken.