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Is it OK to put pineapple on pizza? Roccella steps into the debate with an emphatic “yes”, so long as the result is extraordinary. Chef Francesco Crifo takes a slow-matured base made with artisan wheat flour, and scatters charred, smoke-infused pineapple over the top, then layers it with prosciutto, stracciatella and a glaze made with balsamic vinegar and roasted pineapple juice.

It’s an argument-stopper in eight delicious slices and reflects Roccella’s approach: classic, creative and customer-centred. The welcome is effusive and the all-day offerings are boosted by a handy Italian grocer.

Apart from pizza, there’s a sturdy starter of fried polenta fingers, a spin on chicken parma made with quality bird and buffalo mozzarella, while casarecce with mussels, barramundi and clams is a generous winner. Sfinci, the sugar-dusted Sicilian doughnuts, make for a fine finish.